Cluster Sixteen:
Ota Dokan's Hill in Hongyoji

Hongyoji is a Nichirenshu-affiliated temple standing almost next to the north exit of Nippori station, opposite the Yanaka cemetery in Tokyo. As all temples of this denomination, it has an impressive gateway. Inside, however, there is not so much to see, except for three kuhi with haiku by Issa and Santoka and a stone monument dedicated to Ota Dokan, the founder of the first castle in what is now Tokyo. The temple was founded in 1524 by Ota Dokan's grandson but was only in 1777 moved to the present location. As it stands on a hill, it became famous as a place for moonviewing and was nicknamed Tsukimidera or "Moonviewing Temple."

The first haiku stone I visit is by Issa, whom we already met in Entenji encouraging a skinny frog. Ota Dokan (1432-1486) presumably had set up a military look-out post on this elevated spot, which came to be known as Monomizuka. That Look-out Hill itself has been eaten away by consecutive city developments and all that now remains is a stone stele with inscription - and Issa's haiku. Ota Dokan built his Edo castle in 1457. He was a vassal of the Uesugi clan in a period when warlords tore the country apart and disseminated death and disorder. Characteristically, Dokan was murdered at the command of his own lord, who had become jealous of his vassal. Reputedly, Ota Dokan was not only a great tactician, but also a waka poet.

In this haiku, Issa pays tribute to Ota Dokan - the Monomizuka must still have existed when he came here. But all the same, a sandhill is not much as the sole remembrance of the founder of Edo and in the summer heat Issa only sees a column of shimmering, hot air...

Besides Entenji, also Hongyoji seems to have been one of the temples where Issa lodged when he visited Edo. This is surprising as it belongs to the Nichiren creed, which is like fire and water with Issa's own Pure Land Buddhism. Probably the resident priest was a haiku fan, which may have obliterated all religious differences. The present haiku was reputedly written in this temple. Issa paints a rustic picture: there are only paddies before his eyes, so that even when he lies down and his vision is low, there are no trees or houses to obstruct his view of boats sailing on the river. Of course, the temple sits on a hill, but the river (here called Tone, but now known as Sumida) is quite some distance away from Nippori.

Santoka (1882-1940) was a modern-day Issa, a wandering poet with no belongings whatsoever, he went around the country clad in monk's grab, begging his food. Tokyo was not a popular destination for Issa - he preferred Kyushu and Shikoku or, in general, western Japan (he had been born in Hofu, in Yamaguchi prefecture). He may have come to Tokyo in 1936, when he made a prolonged trip to the east. This was a strange environment for Santoka, but he is relieved to find the moon, which remains the same wherever one is... it is fitting to have this kuhi in the Moonviewing Temple.