[Nigatsudo Hall of Todaiji, location of the Omizutori rite]
Otaimatsu is a most impressive ceremony and the monks who wave the torches come running down the verandah of the Nigatsudo on their wooden clogs, giving off a particular staccato rattle. This sound struck Basho and he aptly combines it with the icy cold which in March is still in the air in Nara, especially after dark.
the clogs of the monks
make an icy sound
mizutori ya | kori no so no | kutsu no oto
[Stone monuments at Nigatsudo, Todaiji]
When Basho visited Todaiji, the temple was still under repair after the destruction wrought by the civil wars of the sixteenth century. The Great Buddha statue was only finally completed in 1692, after the visit by Basho described above, and the statue sat for years in the open like the Great Buddha in Kamakura. The new Buddha Hall (which is the present one) was finally finished in 1708, but Basho did not live to see this. He grieved for the Buddha in its sad state, for at that time even the head had not been restored yet. Basho saw only the rump of the statue, slowly being covered by the first snow of the year, and he wrote:
when will the temple building start
for the Great Buddha?
hatsu yuki ya | itsu Daibutsu no | hashira date
The haiku stone stands to the side of the steps leading up to the Nigatsudo Hall in Todaiji. No entrance fee.
30-min walk from Nara Kintetsu Station or JR Nara station.