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February 13, 2012

Regional Sake: Miyagi Prefecture

Miyagi Prefecture forms the central part of Tohoku, and its capital Sendai, built by Date Masamune who established his castle here in 1604, is the largest city in northern Honshu with more than a million inhabitants. Although the western side of the prefecture is mountainous (including the famous Zao range), there is a large plain around Sendai. A famous scenic spot near Sendai is Matsushima, 260 tiny, pine covered islands in a shallow bay. There is a lot of fresh seafood from the Pacific coast with its many excellent ports as Shiogama and Ishimaki, while the central plain is a rice growing area.

Although the number of breweries is not as high as in Akita or Yamagata (between 20 and 30, more or less like Iwate), many of them concentrate on quality sake (about 80% of the total, against 25% nationwide) and especially junmai (more than 26%). Rice used consists in the first place of the famous food rice types Sasanishiki and Hitomebore, but also the Kura no Hana sake rice has been developed in more recent years. The taste of Miyagi sake is refined and probably the driest among the six Tohoku prefectures - due to both the use of food rice and the matching with local seafood.

Miyagi is also the area that was at the epicenter of the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami, but sake breweries have done their utmost to continue in business and have bounced back. 

Selection of Brands & Breweries (alphabetical order):
  • Hakurakusei & Atagonomatsu (Niizawa Sake Brewing Co., Ltd., Osaki). Established 1873. Named after legend that horse trainer called Hakuraku reared a great steed that ascended to heaven. Aims at sake to enjoy with food. Clean and well-balanced taste.
    The 19th c. kura as well as stocks were destroyed by the 2011 earthquake, but the company has built a new facility and is determined to continue brewing (visit by UrbanSake). 
  • Hitakami (Hirakata Shuzo, Ishinomaki). Established 1861. Small boutique brewery. Gentle and soft taste.
    Ishinomaki was in the center of quake and tsunami, and Hitakami suffered extensive damage, but has continued brewing. It even brewed a special sake from the tanks that were severely shaken during the quake.
  • Ichinokura (Ichinokura Co., Ltd., Osaki). Established 1973 through the joint-venture of four historical breweries. Pleasing and easy to drink. English website.
    Ichinokura was also hard hit by the quake, loosing much of its stock.
  • Katsuyama Den (Katsuyama Kigyo Co., Ltd., Sendai). Founded more than 300 years ago. Only Sendai-clan approved brewery still in existence. Produces only junmai sake. Interview with president of the company, who is wine sommelier and looks at sake like wine.
  • Suminoe (Suminoe Co., Ltd., Ishinomaki). Est 1845. Fresh, gentle taste.
    Like Hitakami from the same city, hard hit by quake and tsunami.
  • Urakasumi (Saura Co., Ltd., Shiogama). Established in 1724. Produced sake for the famous Shiogama Shrine. Brand-name comes from a classical poem written by Minamoto no Sanetomo. Pioneer in producing ginjo sake. Developed a new yeast that is now Association Yeast No. 12. Soft and fragrant sake. English website.
    Urakasumi suffered major damage to one of their two kura, but has since been able to repair this.
Other sake regions on Japan Navigator:
Hokkaido - Aomori - Iwate - Akita - Saitama - Shiga - Kyoto - Nara - Wakayama - Osaka - Hyogo - Okayama - Tottori