Local Sake: Tottori Prefecture
Jul 24th, 2009 by Ad Blankestijn
Tottori is a small prefecture as sake goes, with only an annual production of 1,573 kl and 24 breweries. There are no Tottori toji left anymore, usually toji from neighboring Izumo or Tajima come to work here. But that does not mean Tottori sake does not have a character of its own. Like other prefectures facing the open sea (Niigata, Toyama, Kochi) the sake is dry of character, but in contrast it is not light, but a bit heavy on amino acids – it has a pronounced rich taste which it shares with Shimane Prefecture, but which is very different from both Inland Sea facing prefectures in Western japan, Okayama and Hiroshima.
Sake rice developed about 70 years ago in Tottori itself is called Goriki (”strong power”) and grown in the Inaba area in the east of the prefecture. Also Gohyakumangoku, Tamasakae and Fukuhana are grown. Tottori is home to Nijuseiki pears and “pear yeast” is used in several “pear ginjos” by different makers. As the kura are all small, sake making still is mainly a handicraft in Tottori.
Here are some of the most famous breweries in Tottori:
Brand: Inabazuru (by Nakagawa Shuzo)
“Crane of Inaba” (Inaba is the old name for eastern Tottori). Company that revived the Goriki sake rice. Founded 1828 in Tottori City. Full and somewhat dry, as the character of the sake of Tottori is. Company has won many prizes at the National New Sake Competition.
Brand: Suwa Izumi (by Suwa Shuzo)
“Well of Suwa.” Named after the Suwa Shrine standing at the back of the brewery in Yazu-gun (north of Mimasaka in Okayama); founded in 1859. Fresh, but with astringency and a dry finish. Brews slowly with soft water. Clean air and cold winters. See profile at Esake.
Brand: Takaisami (by Otani Shuzo)
“Bravery of the Hawk.” Well-rounded and full-bodied, also uses the Goriki sake rice. Founded 1873. Located between Kurayoshi and Yonago, in western Tottori. The toji is from Izumo and now over eighty, has worked all his life for this company. He has received various awards.
Information from: National Tax Office and Japan Sake Breweries Association
Regional profile gleaned from: Nihonshu no Tekisuto (2): Sanchi no Tokucho to Tsukuritetachi by renowned sake journalist Matsuzaki Haruo (Doyukan, 2005). Some information about individual breweries based on Matsuzaki Haruo, Tastes of 1635 Shinpan Nihonshu Gaidobukku (Shibata Shoten 2003), as well as The Sake Companion by John Gaunter (Running Press) and The Insider’s Guide to Sake by Philip Harper (Kodansha International).
