October 29, 2008

Cultural news from Japan

Culture Day is coming up (November 3), so it is again time for the Order of Culture. Recipients have just been announced. Among them is Donald Keene, the foremost authority on Japanese literature. My only question is why he had to wait untill he became 86! Another well-known recipient in the cultural field is conductor Seiji Ozawa (who is still "young" at 73).

Although sunsets seen from the area of Monzen on the Noto Peninsula are also very good, the city of Matsue, on the banks of Lake Shinji in Shimane Prefecture, is making business out of them. Matsue is of course a tourist center, thanks to its original castle, old temples and shrines, beautiful museums and the fact that Lafcadio Hearn lived here for a year in the late 19th century. But of tourists there is never enough and the city now is promoting the sunsets over Lake Shinji as a sight to behold at least once in your lifetime. As AFP notes: "It has set up what it believes is a first-of-its-kind sunset forecast, giving weekly previews of whether there is a view to enjoy." (See the Japanese-language sunset timetable on the city's website). The city makes appreciable efforts to keep the view of the lake clean by not allowing high-rises in the area. It has built a special park for sunset-viewing and the Shimane Art Museum, also on the lake side, stays open until dusk in spring and summer so that visitors can enjoy the sunset from among the art works.

With the help of Trevor Corson of The Zen of Fish fame, the Blue Ocean Institute has brought out a pamphlet about "sustainable sushi." As the Japan Times notes: "Mackerel is in but octopus is out. And bluefin tuna, known as the king of sushi for its fatty belly meat, is a definite no-no." I found another good guide at Seafood Watch. Generally speaking, price and availability, together with diversifying taste in japan, will regulate the market of its own accord - at least partially. As you can see in any Kaiten-sushi (conveyer belt) restaurant, the tuna is becoming rare and instead you find many new types of sushi, with beef, pork, ham, eggplant, sea salad or crab salad, corn, and in Kyoto of course yuba. Sushi seems to become like sandwiches: any topping will do... But being a conscious customer never hurts!
All three stories were found on the web thanks to the convenient links daily provided by NewsonJapan

October 28, 2008

The deliciousness of cold sake

With autumn and falling temperatures, the time for drinking hot sake is again arriving - or is it?

Visitors to Japan often make the acquaintance of Japan's national drink via the warm or even hot variant in a flask and small cup of ceramics. Unfortunately, the sake they get served in those cases is usually of the cheaper kind, the sort to which a lot of alcohol has been added instead of being based purely on rice. And it is usually served much too hot in order to hide the lack of taste. The hot alcohol attacks your nose and the taste is burning. There could be no worse advertisement for sake...

No, the custom should be turned on its head. Sake should in the first place be drunk cold, even in autumn and winter. I advise you to select only premium sake (ginjo, daiginjo, junmai or at least honjozo) and give the cheap stuff from paper packs and supermarkets the cold shoulder. A good junmai costs only between 900 and 1300 yen for a 720 ml. bottle, a ginjo just a few hundred yen more. Also try to find an izakaya where, besides the unbranded (hot) sake which is always questionable stuff, they have some types of jizake, premium sake brands from smaller breweries.

If you have never drunk sake cold yet, you will be very pleasantly surprised at the delicious taste of a cold premium sake. Of course cold sake should be drunk from a glass rather than a folkloristic sake set. There is a whole world to discover!

October 24, 2008

The language of Kyoto (Kyo-kotoba)

The language spoken by the inhabitants of Kyoto.... Don't make the mistake of calling it a "dialect" - the language of Kyoto has for centuries been the norm in Japan and Kyotoites are proud of their heritage!

Its roots are in the language of the court and the aristocracy, as well as the townspeople - the traders and craftspeople (including the Nishijin weavers) who catered to the upper classes, and copied their language, plus the elegant geisha towns. Kyoto language is soft and elegant, consonants are long drawn out and the speed is slow. Often circumlocutions are used. It is a somewhat feminine language.

Roji becomes "rooji," itta "yuutta" and takaku "takoo." "Hon wo motte kite kudasai" (please bring the book) becomes "hon wo motte kite moraehen yaro ka?"

The language is also very polite, and therefore quite vague. It is full of subtle nuances and often you do not know whether something positive or negative has been said. People can criticize by praising.

Here are some typical Kyoto expressions:

standard-Japanese irassharu (polite verb "to be") becomes "iharu" in the language of Kyoto

inai (normal and negative form of "to be") becomes "iihin" or even better "iyarahen"

irasshaimase (welcome) becomes "oideyasu" or, even more polite (only in case of people one knows well), "okoshiyasu"

shitsurei shimasu (pardon me) becomes "gomenyasu"

kutabirete iru (to be very tired) becomes "shindoi"

tamago (egg) becomes "ninuki"

ocha (tea) becomes "bubu" (both of these I have never heard from my Kyoto family, certainly not "bubu" for ocha)

hotto suru (to be relieved) becomes "hokkori"

nenaide itsu mademo okite iru (not getting sleepy, although it is late) becomes "me ga katai" lit. "the eyes are stiff"

October 23, 2008

Canon of 108 best books (11) - The Women in the Dunes by Abe Kobo

Published in 1962, The Woman in the Dunes is a surrealistic and sometimes even absurdistic novel that reminds one of Sartre and Beckett. It has been called "the most famous postmodern tale of a person who went missing" (Dan Harper in Senses of Cinema).

The premise is as follows. A school teacher called Niki Junpei has taken a few days off to spend time on his hobby, collecting insects. For that purpose he visits a dune region in a remote part of Japan, far from Tokyo. (The area that immediately comes to mind are the sand dunes of Tottori, also used in the surrealistic photograhy of Ueda Shoji. Although not really so remote (they lie next to the prefectural capital of Tottori) there is no other desert-like landscape in Japan and it must have been these dunes that gave Abe Kobo the idea for the setting of the novel).

Junpei passes through a village where some of the houses stand in deep sand pits. When he misses the last bus back to civilization, the locals suggest he stay the night in their village. They send him down a rope ladder into just such a sand pit. Here a young widow lives alone, battling with the sand that threatens to destroy her ramshackle dwelling. Every night she must dig away the sand that is hauled up by the villagers and then sold to the cities. If she stops digging, not only her house will be engulfed, but the sand will also threaten the other houses in the village.

Junpei listens without interest to her story - he thinks it has nothing to do with him, after all he will be leaving the next morning. But when the next day dawns, he discovers that the rope ladder has been removed. He has been trapped. The villagers tell him he must help the widow, as she needs the strength of a man to battle the ever-encroaching sand. Junpei has been caught like an insect.

At first, he rebels. He tries to escape, by various means, but fails to clamber up the steep walls. Another time, he makes it out of the pit, but gets lost in the dunes and is finally caught again. He then takes the widow captive, but that does not make things any better. For now the villagers, who in exchange for the sand used to provide the widow with water, food and other necessities, stop supplying them even with water. Going crazy with thirst in the hot, dusty pit, Junpei is forced to release her.

Eventually, Junpei adjusts himself to his captivity. He even becomes the widow's lover and more or less resigns himself to his fate. But he still tries to capture a crow to use the bird as messenger, to let the world know of his fate. Through the trap, he then discovers a way to draw water from the damp subsoil and becomes absorbed in his new task of engineering. He is elated to find that he can actually improve the environment in which he is forced to live.

At the end of the book Junpei gets the chance to escape, when the widow who is pregnant with his child, is suddenly taken to a hospital because of a problem with her pregnacy.  The villagers forget to remove the rope ladder, but now Junpei does not want to leave anymore.

I first read The Woman in the Dunes in the early eighties, when I studied in Kyoto. I bought it as a Tuttle paperback at the local Maruzen, a copy that still looks beautiful - Tuttle used good-quality paper - and has the added interest of containing illustrations by Abe Machi, the wife of the author. Back in Holland, in the mid-eighties, a Dutch translation was published, and I wrote a review for one of the major dailies. I would only see the film much later, after coming back to Tokyo and buying the DVD.

In the sixties, seventies and eighties, Abe Kobo was considered as one of the best contemporary Japanese authors, but since then his stock seems to have gone down. In one interesting aspect he resembles Murakami Haruki: both authors aim their work at a cosmopolitan public and do not try to be particularly "Japanese", in contrast to for example Kawabata. A typical (originally left-wing) intellectual, a modernist who liked to experiment, Abe was very fashionable in his own time.

Thanks to that popularity, Abe has been well served by translators: Around the Curve (some of his early stories - he was an Akutagawa Prize Winner with The Crime of S. Karuma ); The Woman in the Dunes; The Face of Another; The Ruined Map; The Ark Sakura; The Box Man; Secret Rendezvous; Kangeroo Notebook; Inter Ice Age 4; and plays as The Man who Turned into a Stick. But I am afraid in the end he will be remembered for just one book, The Woman in the Dunes.

The Woman in the Dunes is in all respects a perfect novel. The ideas, the setting, the story and the way it is told, the implications for the human condition, everything is in perfect balance. Abe never matched his own masterwork - he did not even come close. As Dan Harper comments: "Abe's abstractions seemed to expand exponentially with each new book. Their increasingly hermetic ideas, pushing meaning to impenetrable extremes, drew progressively narrower interest from readers." In fact, to be honest, I have not been able to finish any of the books Abe wrote after The Woman in the Dunes, although I have tried most of them.

In the title of this post I almost wrote: "The Woman in the Dunes by Teshigahara Hiroshi" - so indelibly has the great prize-winning film by the Sogetsu-ikebana grand master lodged itself in my head. The film follows the book faithfully, it was adepted by Abe himself. Teshigahara was a great avant-gardist active as painter, sculptor, garden designer, teahouse architect, theater director and of course ikebana  meister. He also made twenty films, of which eight were full-length features. Four of these were made with Abe, the first one, Pitfall, based on a script by the author, the other three on novels by him (the others are The Face of Another and The Ruined Map). As film, too, The Woman in the Dunes is a perfect masterwork, almost greater than the novel. For the protagonists, Teshigahara found Okada Eiji and Kishida Keiko, and both melted completely into their roles. The music was composed by another avant-gardist, brilliant "classical" composer Takemitsu Toru. Takemitsu liked to write for the film and worked with almost all famous directors of the sixties.

Of course, the visuals are also spectacular, even although this is a black-and-white film. Teshigahara returns time and again to shots of the shifting sands, and the abstract compositions of sand and dunes become a fearful presence in themselves, the third protagonist of the film. While you watch the film, you feel the itch of imaginary grains of sand, and when you get up afterwards, you are almost tempted to brush the sand from your clothes!

Novel and film are two complimentary masterworks. If you have not enjoyed them yet, you have a great pleasure waiting for you.

Scriptorium page on Kobo Abe by David Keffer

Senses of Cinema essay on Teshigahara Hiroshi

Roger Ebert essay on The Woman in the Dunes

October 21, 2008

Japan on the web

A new event, trying to compete with Hideyoshi's historical Grand Tea Ceremony in Kyoto, is the "Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony" to be held at the Hama-rikyu Gardens (Tokyo) on Sat Oct 25 and Sun Oct 26. It will feature an “Indoor tea ceremony,” a “Casual outdoor tea ceremony”, and “Tea ceremony in English for foreign visitors”. There will also be geisha dances and the price for a bowl of tea is just a few hundred yen! More information.

Again no Nobel Prize for Murakami Haruki... perhaps the wait is for his next big novel. Read Murakami Lost by Daniel Morales on NeoJaponisme.




Mouth-watering article about the Japanese candy you can buy in the supermarket here - with favorites. [Thanks to Newsonjapan]

Shochiku has announced that it is going to tear down the present beautiful Kabukiza Theater in Tokyo because it has deteriorated with age - it was built in 1951 and is in fact the third Kabuki Theater on the site. The first theater was built here 120 years ago, in 1889. Previous buildings were destroyed by earthquake and war. The last performance in the present theater will be held in April, 2010. Putting up a new building will take at least 3 years from that date. More information about that building will be given early next year. I like the present nostalgic building - a pity such a nice monument will disappear...  As the building is listed as a monument, not everybody in Japan is happy about this decision, either. But due to functional deficiencies such as a lack of barrier-free capability, and the lack of sufficient earthquake resistance, the decision was made to re-build. From January 2009 to April 2010 "sayonara performances" of famous plays performed in the present building will be held. (From the Japanese Asahi Shimbun).

October 18, 2008

Sake Samurai

Yesterday, Friday October 17, 2008, the Third Sake Samurai nomination event was held in the Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto. Organized by the Junior Council of the Japan Sake Brewers Association, four Japanese and two non-Japanese were awarded the title of "Sake Samurai" for their valuable contribution to promoting the attractiveness of sake.



The title was instituted two years ago to help stem the tide where sake, "together with traditional foods and customs, is pushed toward the periphery of the Japanese lifestyle" and where sake is in danger of losing its function as "national drink." The Sake Samurai form "a gathering of those who share a love of sake and the desire to nurture it, to restore the pride of sake and to spread sake culture not only within Japan but throughout the world."

One of the foreigners nominated was Jan van Lissum, the well-known wine and food specialist who is President of The Wine & Food Association and Editor-in-chief/Publisher of restaurant guide GaultMillau Nederland. Jan van Lissum is playing a crucial role in introducing premium sake into the Netherlands and Europe.

Among the four Japanese nominees was Shigeyama Motohiko, a young actor from the Okura School of Kyogen based in Kyoto. Shigeyama Motohiko is not only responsible for a renewed kyogen boom among young Japanese, but also uses kyogen to promote the culture of sake.



After a prayer and purification ceremony in the Main Hall of the Shimogamo Shrine, participants watched the Juni-hitoe (Twelve-layered court costume) dance in the attached Mitsui Shrine. Here also the awards were handed over by Ichishima Kenji, Chairman of the Junior Council of the Japan Sake Brewers Association, after reading out the three tenets of the Sake Samurai:
  • Love both sake and the beautiful culture of Japan.
  • Strive to gain a deeper understanding of sake culture and work on behalf of its further development.
  • Spread the word about Japanese sake around the world with pride and passion.
Among the eleven previously selected sake samurai are popular singer Kato Tokiko and sake promoter John Gauntner.

October 16, 2008

Seaweed, vegetables from the sea

Japan is - together with Korea and China - the only country in the world where the "vegetable from the sea," seaweed, is eaten on a daily basis. For centuries, seaweed has been part of the diet of the Japanese. What are the different types of seaweed and how are they eaten?
  • Nori or purple laver. The purplish-black seaweed best known as a wrapper for sushi and onigiri. Nori is the most important product from marine culture in Japan. In the sea, the thin, flat blades are reddish. They are very nutritious (30-50% protein content, also containing various vitamins). They are dried into sheets and then toasted. During processing, most of the salt is washed away. Nori has a characteristic taste of amino acids (alanine, glutamic acid and glycine). Japan produces about 10 billion nori sheets (20x20 cm) a year! Besides the use in sushi, small rectangular sheets of nori are eaten on top of the rice at breakfast or dinner. They may also be torn up and shredded on top of the rice. This last use is a form of furikake, and they are also sold as such mixed with salt and sesame.
  • Aonori or green laver. A flat, leafy plant that is cultivated in Japan like nori. It grows on rocks in shallow bays. This type is dried and cut into small flakes to sprinkle on rice. Also aonori is rich in proteins and has a nutritious vitamin and mineral content.
  • Konbu or kelp. Konbu grows in cold waters off the coast of northern Japan, especially Hokkaido. It grows to two meters and is partly cultivated and partly harvested from natural sources, from June to October. Konbu contains about 10% protein, 2% fat and various minerals and vitamins, although lower than nori. On the other hand, it is rich in iron. Konbu is washed with seawater and then cut into 1 m long sheets and dried. Japan has century-long tradition of using kelp. In fact the Japanese cuisine could not exist without it, as it is the main ingredient for dashi, the stock that forms the pillar of the Japanese kitchen. Konbu is very rich in monosodium glutamate. It can be fried, or seasoned and cooked. In the past, dried konbu was an alternative to gum. It is also used for making konbu tea.
  • Wakame or seaweed. Wakame has a high dietary fiber content. It is brown and can be found on rocky shores and in bays in the temperate zones of Japan. Wakame can also be cultivated and is usually harvested from May to June. Wakame is cut and dried and in Japan especially used in both miso soup and clear soup (suimono). It is also popular in seaweed salads and vinegared dishes (sunomono).
  • Hijiki. A brown seaweed with a finer leaf structure than konbu and wakame. It is cultivated and sold cut and dried. When boiled before drying the color becomes a rich black. despite its spiky looks, it is quite soft. It is usually cooked in stir fries or simmered with other vegetables. Popular is also a dish, hijiki mame, where it is combined with soy beans. Hijiki is very nutritious.
  • Mozuku. A dark brown seaweed harvested in the more tropical climate of Okinawa. It is used as a fresh vegetable, especially in seaweed salads.

The general term for all these varieties of seaweed is kaiso.

Reference: A Guide to the Seaweed Industry, FAO Corporate Document Repository

October 14, 2008

"Kyoto Kentei" test 2008

The Fifth Kyoto Kentei will be held on Sunday, December 14, 2008. Applications are accepted until Monday, November 10. Test your knowledge of Kyoto - unfortunately, only in Japanese! Read more about the test in this post. I passed the Third Level last year and was planning to try the Second Level this year, but I have been so busy with "sake studies" and other work that I had no time to brush up my Kyoto knowledge. But perhaps I'll try anyway...

Buy the Japanese textbook at Amazon.co.jp:

October 11, 2008

Komomo, from maiko to geiko in Miyagawacho, Kyoto

A Geisha's Journey : My Life as a Kyoto Apprentice A Geisha's Journey : My Life as a Kyoto Apprentice by Naoyuki Ogino

Kodansha International has published a beautiful photo book called A Geisha's Journey, My Life as a Kyoto Apprentice. The initiative for the book was taken by young photographer Ogino Naoyuki and its subject is a Japanese teenager and later young woman called Nasu Ruriko who was born in Mexico and after that lived with her parents in China. These foreign experiences awakened her interest in her Japanese roots and everything "wa" (traditionally Japanese). She especially liked to wear kimono and wanted to be able to explain Japanese culture to others..

After reading a geiko blog on the internet she started corresponding with the writer, Koito (Takeda Ikuko), and ended up as a maiko with this "elder sister" in Miyagawacho in Kyoto. That was in 2000, when she was 15 years old - the ideal age for becoming a maiko.

As a maiko, Ruriko received the name Komomo, "Little Peach," which really fit her as it referred to the round shape of he face... and the name of a cat she had in the past.

We join Komomo first as shikomi, then as maiko and finally see her settle down as a full-fledged geiko.

After following her for seven years with his camera, Ogino taped her story and the explanations she gave of his photos, so what we have here is a very lively and vernacular account.The photo's have a certain grainy quality, as opposed to being flashy, which adds to the realism of the book.

Ogino and Komomo have in common that both young people followed their own dream: Komomo to become a 21st century geisha and Ogino, who graduated in physics from Nagoya University, to become a freelance photographer. Ogino provides us with a unique glimpse of a hidden, but also sadly vanishing world.

Some recent good reads - Akutagawa

Rashomon and Seventeen Other Stories (Penguin Classics Deluxe Edition) Rashomon and Seventeen Other Stories by Ryunosuke Akutagawa
rating: 5 of 5 stars

Perfectly translated new edition of famous classical stories as "Rashomon," "In a Bamboo grove," "The Nose," "Dragon," "Hell Screen" and "The Spider's Thread." Akutagawa used to be only available in somewhat antiquated translations, so this new translation is very welcome. Besides historical fiction, also several modern stories have been included. "The Story of a Head that Fell Off" is the perfect anti-war tale; and "Horse Legs" is a Kafkian fantasy even Abe Kobo could not have bettered. The final section is dedicated to autobiographical stories - Akutagawa’s family problems, and his increasing fear of going insane (like his mother before him), which eventually led to his suicide. "Spinning Gears" is the strongest here - the reader almost feels he is pulled down the same dark hole as Akutagawa himself.
Also read my larger review of Rashomon and Akutagawa.


Mandarins: Stories by Ryūnosuke Akutagawa Mandarins: Stories by Ryūnosuke Akutagawa by Ryunosuke Akutagawa



rating: 5 of 5 stars

At about the same time that Jay Rubin’s new translation in Penguin appeared, also Mandarins: Stories by Ryunosuke Akutagawa (Archipelago Books, 2007), translated by Charles de Wolf, was published. This is also an excellent volume and happily among the 15 stories selected, there is only an overlap of a few stories with Rubin. Most of these tales are set in modern times, as the title story Mandarins, where a jaded young man is shocked into feelings of human warmth when he sees a servant girl throw oranges from the train to her younger brothers. O'er a Withered Moor relates the death of haiku poet Basho, and the selfish thoughts his disciples harbor at his deathbed.

Highly recommended.



Kappa Kappa by Ryunosuke Akutagawa

rating: 3 of 5 stars

Kappa is a novella by Akutagawa Ryunosuke, translated by Geoffrey Bownas. Kappa are creatures from Japanese folklore, scaly, child-sized beings with a face like a tiger and a sharply pointed beak. "Kappaland" serves as a satire of Japanese society and customs. As a work of art this novella is weaker than most other stories by Akutagawa, as it is a bit childish in its obviousness. Good introduction by G.H. Healey.

Rashomon and Other Stories Rashomon and Other Stories by Ryunosuke Akutagawa

rating: 3 of 5 stars

Older translation that has been surpassed by the newer renderings of Jay Rubin and Charles de Wolf. The only reason it remains on my bookshelf is that it includes one story they skipped: Yam Gruel, a story about infatuation that is one of my favorite Akutagawa "gems."

Japanese Short Stories. Japanese Short Stories. by Ryunosuke Akutagawa

rating: 3 of 5 stars

One of the older collections of stories by Akutagawa. Surpassed by several newer translations, it does include a few stories not re-translated, as "Heichu, the Amarous Genius." But be sure to start your Akutagawa experience with the translation by Jay Rubin, and then Charles de Wolf.

On Japan from the web

Interview with sake sommelier Blair Bushey from the Okada restaurant in the Wynn Las Vegas, about combining sake and food. "Sake is not just for sipping with sushi."

The Gekkeikan Research Institute has succeeded in adapting brewing technology to produce bio-ethanol from nonfood plant materials as paddy straw and chaff. This is done by integrating koji genes (which convert cellulose starch into sugar) into sake yeast (which ferments sugar), resulting in a sort of "super yeast."

Great collection of sake labels from Hokkaido to Kyushu - click on the label to enlarge (National Research Institute of Brewing).

Also from the NRIB, a useful PDF to help you read sake labels, and at the same time a very convenient and concise introduction to sake terms.

Hitotoki is "an online literary project collecting stories of singular experiences tied to locations in cities wordwide" - here is Tokyo with 31 stories so far. “Flanked on either side by adult manga shops and the like, the smell of yakitori in the air.”

October 1, 2008

The Day of Sake and the Sake Year

Today, October 1, is the "Day of Sake." On this day, the new sake year starts for breweries. Japan's premium sake makers, who follow tradition by only brewing in winter, wake up from their long summer slumber. The low temperatures in winter make that there are less harmful microbes around (after all, the fermentation tanks are open!) and they also make it possible to control the brewing process better. Brewing is all about temperature control.

In October the seasonal workers, including the top man, the toji or master brewer, return to the brewery and start cleaning the vats and all the implements. The new sake rice has by now been harvested and rice polishing can begin.

Every brewery has a Shinto altar dedicated to Matsuo-sama, the patron-deity of sake brewing, from the large Matsuo Taisha Shrine in western Kyoto. Here a prayer is said for safety and success in brewing before any real work starts.

The first job is to steam some rice, make a small batch of koji and then fill the yeast starter (shubo) with that koji, with more steamed rice, water and lactic acid (to create a suitably sour environment in which the yeast can grow without interference from other microbes). When two weeks later a very strong and pure yeast has been cultivated, the first fermentation tank is filled with the yeast starter, more steamed rice, koji and water. This is added in three stages in order not to smother the yeast starter in the large tank.

Usually first some non-premium sake, or the simpler honjozo, is brewed. The most difficult processes, for the ginjo sakes, usually have to wait until the coldest time of the sake year, January and February.

The first sake brewed in December, is ready in January. When that sake is pressed, many breweries hang up a sakabayashi, a ball made from cedar twigs. Traditionally, these balls are provided by the Miwa Shrine in Nara, another Shinto establishment deeply involved in sake matters. The balls used to come from the sacred woods of the shrine, but I doubt that still is the case.

For New Year, breweries sell specially bottled New Year sake, sometimes with a few gold flakes added to the brew. Nigori-sake, "cloudy" sake or sake that has not been finely sieved and therefore still contains some particles of rice, is also popular at this time.

Many months of hard work continue (sake brewing also goes on during the New Year holidays) and then, finally, in March the last rice for the last batch of sake is steamed. This is celebrated in a short ceremony, koshiki-taoshi, where the steaming vat, the koshiki, is turned on its side to be cleaned. All brewery workers are releaved their hard task is almost over and a party is held. The next month, the last brewed sake is pasteurized and with the rest of the sake from this winter, stored as genshu in the storage tanks of the brewery to mature during the summer. This is the time the master brewer and the other seasonal workers leave the brewery.

Not all sake is pasteurized and today it is common to sell part of the genshu in spring as unpasteurized, un-matured sake. This sake is called "hatsushibori" (first pressing); you also come across the term "shinshu" (new sake"). This type of sake has a young brashness and freshness that makes up for the slight rawness of the taste. Unpasteurized, it is of course drunk cold and has to be handled with care.

During the next months, as spring turns into summer, more unpasteurized sake is sold as  "namazake", which means that it is indeed a bit "raw". Drunk cold, this is a popular and refreshing  summer drink.

July is the time for "hatsunomikiri," a day when the toji returns to taste the maturing sake and check on its progress. "Hatsu" means "first" and "nomikiri" means "opening the tap" at the bottom of each tank to do the tasting. Now such tastings are complimented by monthly chemical analysis of the contents of the tank, to check in detail on the state of the precious genshu.

Then autumn comes along and the properly matured sake is now once again pasteurized, bottled and finally sold. Again a small amount of the sake is not pasteurized for this second time, but sold directly from the maturing tanks as "hiya-oroshi," the sake sold when the weather gets colder so that a second pasteurization is not asolutely necessary. At least, that was the case in the Edo-period. The hiya-oroshi season is still in full swing when the sake year ends and a new year comes along. Compared to the Shiboritate sake mentioned above, Hiya-oroshi is milder and rounder, thanks to the maturing process, but still keeps a greater freshness because of skipping the second pasteurization. Kampai!