Regional Sake: Shiga Prefecture

Although Shiga Prefecture boasts some excellent local makers, it is an area of only small breweries. Shiga used to be the central rice producing area of the Kansai, but urbanization and industrialization have taken their toll. You only find unspoiled landscapes in the far north (round the northern tip of Lake Biwa) and in the far south of the prefecture.

As the Hokuriku Highway used to run through the prefecture on its way to the Japan Sea coast, the toji (master brewers) in Shiga often hailed from the Noto Peninsula.

Facts:
Sake production volume Shiga Prefecture in 2006 (figures National Tax Office): 2,528 kiloliters
Sake rice: Tamazakae

Number of active breweries (Japan Sake Brewers Association website): 51

All breweries in Shiga are small. Shiga sake is mellow in tast, and slightly sweet. The water is soft, as in Kyoto's Fushimi.

Here are some interesting breweries:

• Ikemoto Shuzo (1926; Biwa no Choju, "Long Life of Lake Biwa" - "biwa itself means "lute"). One of the great breweries of the Kansai. Switched to "pure rice" sake in 1968 and was also the first to begin producing ginjo sake in Shiga in the early eighties. Slowly brews its top sakes, taking 40 days. Uses the local sake rice, tamazakae. Usually makes full-flavored, powerful sakes, easily the most individualistic brewery in Shiga. Earned many prizes at the annual contest for new sake. Near Imazu, north of Lake Biwa (Takashima City).
• Fujii Honke (1831; Toji no Mai, "Lute Dance," Kyokujitsu, "Morning Sun"). Near Inae, east of Lake Biwa. Brews the white (shiroki) and black (kuroki) sake mentioned as palace sakes in the 10th century Engishiki Records, supplying them to the imperial house for the annual Niiname-sai ceremony in November. Makes ripe sakes with a relatively high acidity. The owner himself has devised the present brewery, with interesting tweaks such as three koji rooms.
• Kawashima Shuzo (1864; Matsu no hana, "Flower of Pine Tree"). The Matsu no Hana brand of sakes are borne by the underflow water from the Hira mountains. Mellow, yet deep aroma. Near Shinasahi Station, west of Lake Biwa.
• Kitajima Shuzo (1805; Miyosakae, "The Flowering in His Reign", based on a poem in the ancient Manyoshu collection). In Koga, the southern part of Shiga Prefecture (near Kosei St on the JR Kusatsu Line). Junmaishu made from organic rice. Sake with a fresh taste. Puts emphasis on premium sakes; in case some alcohol is added, this is distilled from rice (and not as usual from black sugar etc.).

Information from: National Tax Office and Japan Sake Breweries Association

Regional profile gleaned from: Nihonshu no Tekisuto (2): Sanchi no Tokucho to Tsukuritetachi by renowned sake journalist Matsuzaki Haruo (Doyukan, 2005). Some information about individual breweries based on Matsuzaki Haruo, Tastes of 1635 Shinpan Nihonshu Gaidobukku (Shibata Shoten 2003).