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The largest sake producing area in the whole of Japan can be found in Hyogo Prefecture, at the seaside of Nishinomiya and in the eastern part of Kobe. This area is called “Nada” and as there are five sake producing districts, one speaks about the “Five Nada Districts” (Nada Gogo). From east to west these are: Imazu, Nishinomiya, Uozaki, Mikage and Nishi.

[Hamafukutsuru Brewery in the Nada sake district, Kobe]

There are about 40 breweries in Nada and together they are responsible for one-third of the total sake production in Japan. The first brewer, Zakoya Bunzaemon, moved from Itami to Nishinomiya in the Kanei-period (1624-43). Gradually more followed and the Nada Five Districts came to prominence about 200 years ago in the Edo-period (1600-1867), thanks to the following factors:

• Technical: the use of water mills to polish the rice used for making sake (other breweries in Japan at that time still milled by human effort, by men stepping on levers) - this in turn was possible thanks to the water power offered by small rivers as the Shukugawa, Ashiyagawa and Sumiyoshigawa, flowing down from the steep Rokko mountains to the sea. Moreover, while milling by human power could only remove up to 8% of the husk and bran, the water mills could take off 20%, reaching a rice-polishing ratio of 80%, which resulted in a better and clearer taste;

• Nature: the cold wind blowing down from Mt Rokko in winter called “Rokko-Oroshi” created excellent brewing conditions (cold weather helps slow the fermentation process and keeps unwanted micro-organisms away). The breweries therefore built elongated structures stretching east to west with windows in the north wall to allow as much of this freezing air as possible into the brewery;

• Logistics: from the coast with its many ports, the sake could easily be shipped to Edo (now Tokyo); the sake was shipped on Taru Kaisen, boat services exclusively for sake casks. Vessels could carry 3,000 casks and took 20 days to reach Edo. The main port for Nada was Imazu, where the Ozeki Brewery built a lighthouse;

[Cart to haul water from the Miyamizu wells in the Edo-period - Nada sake district, Kobe]

• Water: in 1840 “miyamizu” was discovered by Yamamura Tazaemon, the water from certain wells in Nishinomiya that thanks to its high mineral composition (and lack of iron!) proved eminently suitable for sake brewing (phosporic acid, but also potassium and magnesium - three elements that help the yeast and make the brewing process quicker). The story about Tazaemon goes as follows: he was active in breweries in both Nishinomiya and Uozaki and one day noticed that the taste of the sake made in these two locations was markedly different - the one from Nishinomiya being much more tasty. Tazaemon closely monitored the brewing process and ingredients on both locations and came to the conclusion that the difference had to be ascribed to the water. In other words: the Nishinomiya water was particularly suitable for sake brewing. Later the name “Nishinomiya water” was shortened to “Miya water,” - our miyamizu. The water is transported by tank lorries to the various breweries - the largest ones have their own wells.

• Rice: the availability of excellent sake rice in the area north of the Rokko mountains and the early introduction of the system of contracting farmers and fields, ensuring a stable production. In 1936, the famous Yamada Nishiki strain of sake rice with its large-sized grains full of starch was cultivated by crossing various other strains.

• Skills:The toji or brewmasters from Tanba (from the area around Tsuchiyama) are nationally famous for their brewing skills; they are known for their dry and strong sake. In the north of the prefecture one also finds the Tajima brewmasters.

Although nine of the thirteen largest brewers in Japan are located in Nada (these are the companies that flood the market with “ordinary” sake with added alcohol, sold in paper packs or glasses), you will also find plenty of small brewers specialized in high-quality sake.

The sake from Hyogo usually tastes strong and dry - it has been called “masculine,” Otokozake, especially when consumed in spring before storage, when it has a strong bite and deep flavor. During the summer storage, it mellows and is therefore called Akibare or “Clear Autumn Sky” when drunk in autumn. Anyway, it is a full and solid rather than fruity sake - quite a contrast with the sake from Kyoto.

[Hakutsuru Sake Museum in the Nada sake district, Kobe]

Facts:
Sake production volume Hyogo Prefecture in 2006 (figures National Tax Office): 206,667 kiloliters
Sake rice: the brand “Yamada Nishiki” developed in the prefecture by crossbreeding in the thirties of the last century, is now used nationwide for brewing premium sake. It has a large, lustrous white kernel and absorbs water extremely well. It is superbly fit for making koji rice. Other brands are “Hyogo Kita Nishiki” and “Hyogo Yume Nishiki.”

Number of breweries (Japan Sake Brewers Association website): 95

Taste: Dry, with a ceratin amount of sourness.

[Kikumasamune Sake Museum in the Nada sake district, Kobe]

Examples of Breweries (some of the major ones with websites; first the name of the brewery is given, then between brackets the year of founding and the name of the major brand - which is often different from the name of the brewery!):

The foremost sake region in Hyogo one consists of the “Five Nada districts:”

Nada: Uozaki district:

• Hama Fukutsuru Meijo (1950; Hama Fukutsuru、”Crane of Good Fortune on the Beach”) - Specializes in high-quality ginjo and daiginjo sake, concentrating on fresh and fruity (unpasteurized) namazake. The modern brewery is always open to visitors (through glass). Close to Uozaki Station (Hanshin and Rokko Liner).
• Sakura Masamune (1717; Sakura Masamune, “Cherry Masamune”) - Concentrates on junmai and ginjo type quality sake. Brewery restaurant and shop “Sakura-en.” Yamamura Tazaemon of this brewery discovered the famous “miyamizu” in 1840. Company developed the first Association Yeast in 1905 (not used anymore). Is today the only brewer making its own koji spores.

Nada: Mikage district:

• Hakutsuru Shuzo (1743; Hakutsuru, “White Crane”) - the second largest brewery in Japan. Set up in 1734 by lumber dealer Kano Jihei. English website, brewery museum and (elsewhere in Mikage) a great art museum, with espacially Chinese antiquities, set up in 1934 by the 7th owner of the brewery. Set up U.S. factory in 2005. Light taste compared to other Nada breweries.
• Kenbishi Shuzo (between 1504 and 1521; Kenbishi, “Sword and Diamond”) - no website, but this is the oldest sake brand name in Japan. The logo combines the tip of a sword and a diamond shape. Produces a deep-flavored (but dry) sake by cultivating an excellent “sohaze” koji in small trays, using the 30-day Yamahai method for the yeast starter, and brewing the main mash at 17 degrees C during 30 days. This all, despite the fact that it is a mass-producer! Kenbishi has been called “the real Nada taste.” The company is uncommonly secretive about its production methods and allows no brewery visits.
• Kikumasamune Shuzo (1659; Kikumasamune, “Chrysanthemum Masamune”) - the 6th largest brewery in Japan. Set up 1659 by the Kano family. Already exported sake to the U.K. in 1877. Was one the first of the Big Breweries to stop adding sugar in 1981; upgraded all products to the Honjozo grade in 1988. Large and informative English website; interesting museum with traditional tools (Kikumasamune Shuzo Kinenkan, arguably the best brewery museum in Kobe). Dry-tasting sake, representative of Nada. Operates a sake correspondence course (in Japanese).
• Kimura Shuzo (1758; Taki no Koi, “Carp in the Waterfall” - “the carp climbing up the waterfall will become a dragon” = a Chinese myth about persevering against all odds). Stood at the coast in the past, now much changed scenery. Suffered as all brewers in Kobe from the 1995 earthquake, but still possess traditional building “Shushokan” (used in recent NHK drama). This sake is quiet strong and masculine, doing justice to its name. Started selling junmai “pure rice” sake already in 1971, and ginjo in 1979, to compete with the big breweries around it. Has an excellent line-up of junmai ginjos. Brews with Miyamizu.
• Kobe Shushinkan (1751; Fukuju, abbreviation for Fukurokuju, one of the Seven Deities of Good Fortune) Small brewery making exclusively handcrafted quality sake, sold under the brandname Fukuju. Toji from Tajima. English website. Brewery visit possible (on appointment, from November to March at 14:00). The brewery, which was completely rebuilt after the 1995 earthquake, also operates an excellent restaurant, Sakebayashi, where home-made tofu is served. There is also a large shop.

Nada: Nishi district:

• Fukumusume (1681; Fukumusume“, “Daughter of Good Fortune”）. No 13 on the list of largest breweries. Was the first company to put gold flakes in its celebratory New Year sake. Also famous for its “Kanban Musume,” a cup sake with a heating device.
• Sawanotsuru (1717; Sawanotsuru, “Crane of the Marsh”) - ranks no 11 in size. Operates a small but nice brewery museum “Mukashi no Shuzo” (a replica of the original kura building that was destroyed in the 1995 earthquake). Was one of the first Nada brewers to start producing ginjo sakes. Also has developed some deep-tasting products as a Kimoto Junmai sake and an Koshu “aged” sake. Other products are dry according to the Nada taste.

Nada: Nishinomiya

• Hakutaka (1862; Hakutaka, “White Hawk”) - Has always put quality above quantity. Washes the vats for its Taruzake (sake kept in vats for the typical wood taste) with sake instead of water. Strives after strong sour taste by using Kimoto method, called the real Nada taste. Brewery tours possible. Operates the small Tatsuuma Art Museum dedicated to archeology (near Koroen Station on the Hanshin Line).
• Nihonsakari (1889; Nihonsakari, “Prime of Japan”). Set up by a group of twelve young enterpreneurs. No 5 in size. one of its products is a “green pack” sake with a reduced sugar content. Has also developed a new koji with a large amount of inositol, a vitamin good for the liver fucntion (”Kenjo”).
• Tatsuuma Honke Shuzo (1662; Hakushika, White Deer”) - English website. One of Japan’s ten largest brands, made its foreign appearance already in 1889 at the Paris Exposition. The name ”White Deer” goes back to an old Chinese legend, at the same time Jurojin, one of the Seven Deities of Good Fortune is always depicted as accompanied by a white deer. A smooth and lively sake. Art museum (met many Jurojin and deer images!) as well brewery museum (rebuilt after the 1995 earthquake), both in Nishinomiya, 10 min walk south of the Hanshin Station (see my post about both). The Tatsuuma founding family has played the role of maecenas in Nishinomiya as well.

Nada: Imazu (plus non-Nada Itami)

• Ozeki (1711; Ozeki, - Ozeki is a top sumo-rank). No 3 in size in Japan. In the Edo-period, their sake was called Manryo and very popular in Edo. Name chaneg in 1889 to what then was the highest rank in sumo (unfortunately, later an even higher rank, Yokozuna, was added!). In 1924, Ozeki opened the first bottling plant in Japan. Introduced sake sold in glasses from vending machines in 1964, for the Tokyo Olympic Games, under the brandname “One Cup Ozeki.” Already in 1979 set up factory in the U.S. Known for its marketing power. Has its own sake research center.
• Konishi Shuzo (1550; Shirayuki, “White Snow” - referring to snow on Mt Fuji, as seen by the brewery owner in 1635 as his ship transporting sake to Edo passed the Fuji) - English website; also importer of Belgian beer and Californian wine; producer of local beer. Brewery restaurant and shop. Ranks as no. 9 in size. Only sake brewery left in Itami (in the Edo-period most breweries moved to Nada because of the better logistical conditions).

As regards sake producing areas in Hyogo apart from Nada, also west from Kobe, in Akashi and Himeji (Inland Sea Coast west of Kobe), you will find some excellent breweries:

• Akashi Hakko Kogyo (1919; Akashi Tai, “Bream of Akashi”) - In the port town of Akashi, west of Kobe. English website. Also makes shochu, mirin and umeshu. Named after the tai (sea bream) caught off the coast of Akashi, where the company is located. Robust and full-bodied.
• Eigashima Shuzo (1679; Kamitaka, “Divine Hawk”) - Also in Akashi. Brewery and museum can be visited on weekdays, on appoinment. This company also makes whiskey (”White Oak”), and owns a winery in Yamanashi Prefecture (”Charman Wine”)! Sake is very dry, master brewer from Tamba. Very suitable to be drunk warm.
• Honda Shoten (1923; Tatsuriki, “Dragon Power”) - In the famous castle town of Himeji, west of Kobe. Junmaishu and junmai ginjos made from the highest grade Yamada Nishiki rice (from the Akitsu region around the town of Tojo, where the company has contracted many farmers). The brewery draws pure underflow water more than 100 meters beneath the Ibo River. Full-flavored, rich sake. Daiginjos make up one third of Tatsuriki’s production.
• Yaegaki Shuzo (1666; Mu, “Nothingness”, Yaegaki, “Eightfold Fence”) - Also from Himeji. The brewery takes its name “Eightfold Fence” from a famous poem in the Kojiki, Japan’s oldest extant chronicle. Uses underflow water from the Hayashidagawa River in Himeji, fed upstream by the Shikagatsubo waterfall. Uses Yamahai method, makes very good junmai sakes. Hand production, also of koji (with small boxes). Factory in the U.S. since 1987.

[Kikumasamune - Nada sake district, Kobe]

Inland sake producing areas as Tanba and Tajima:

• Homei Shuzo (1797; Homei, “The Call of the fenix” ). In the historical town of Tanba Sasayama. Their brewery, the 200-year old Horoyoi Jokagura, can be visited.
• Kasumitsuru (1725; Kasumitsuru, “Crane from Kasumi”) - English website. Located in Kasumi, on the Japan Sea Coast. Full-tasting sake made according to the Yamahai method, very different in taste from the dry Nada sakes. Makes well-balanced ginjo’s, but also keeps making “ordinary sake” for the local population.
• Nishiyama Shuzojo (1849; Kotsuzumi, “Small Hand-drum”) - Located in Tanba City, near Tanba Takeda Station on the JR Fukuchiyama Line. Brewery visit on appointment, Feb and March. Uses soft water from a well in the brewery. Delicate sake, different from the usual Hyogo sake. Company uses interesting and fun labels and bottles, very artistic.　Artistic is also the family of the owner - for three generations they are haiku poets in the tradition of Takahama Kyoshi (who also devised the brandname “Kotsuzumi”). Uses Association Yeast No. 10 for all its products, resulting in soft taste with little sourness. All koji made by hand. Sake rice is Hyogo Kita Nishiki.

[Inside the Hamafukutsuru brewery museum - Nada sake district, Kobe]

Information from: National Tax Office and Japan Sake Breweries Association
Regional profile gleaned from: Nihonshu no Tekisuto (2): Sanchi no Tokucho to Tsukuritetachi by renowned sake journalist Matsuzaki Haruo (Doyukan, 2005). Some information about individual breweries based on Matsuzaki Haruo, Tastes of 1635 Shinpan Nihonshu Gaidobukku (Shibata Shoten 2003), as well as The Sake Companion by John Gaunter (Running Press) and The Insider’s Guide to Sake by Philip Harper (Kodansha International).