Japan Navigator

Everybody dies, even for the Buddha the Great Transformation was inescapable.

According to the tradition, the Buddha entered Nirvana at the age of eighty. But as he had reached Enlightenment, his was not an ordinary death. By his enlightenment, he had already extinguished the fires of attachment and passion, thus creating a state of Nirvana. However, total Nirvana could only be reached by leaving the body behind that still contained the embers of those fires. This is called “Para-Nirvana,” the Perfect Nirvana.

Para-Nirvana scenes, in Japanese called Nehan-zu, usually show the Buddha (Sakyamuni, in Japanese “Shaka”) lying down on his right side, one arm stretched out, the other on his pillow. He is surrounded by lamenting disciples and also crying beasts and birds. Most representations are large scroll paintings and temples hang them around March 15, the date of Shaka’s Nehan in the new calendar.

[Shinnyodo Temple, Kyoto]

In Kyoto there are several temples showing interesting Nehan-zu:

Shinnyodo (March1 -31, colorful Nehan-zu on display)
Sennyuji (March 14-16, largest Nehan-zu in Japan)
Tofukuji (March 14-16, one more huge Nehan-zu)
Honpoji (March 15-April 15, famous Nehan-zu painted in 1599 by Hasegawa Tohaku)

[Honpoji Temple, Kyoto]

In contrast to these scroll paintings, always of huge size and made since the 11th c., the oldest representation of the Buddha’s death-scene happens to be made of miniature clay figures. It can be found in Horyuji’s Five-storied Pagoda, standing to the west of the Golden Hall, inside the surrounding corridor and – conveniently – is always on view.

Although construction had already started shortly after 670, the finishing touch was only put to this pagoda in 711, and at that time the clay images were also installed inside. There are four scenes: the debate between the lay philosopher Yuima and the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, Monju; the division of the Buddha’s relics after his death; a statue of Miroku, the Buddha of the future; and, on the north side of the pagoda (the side turned towards the Lecture Hall and away from the Chumon Gate), the scene of the Buddha’s Nirvana (Nehan).

[Pagoda of Horyuji Temple, Nara]

The doors on all four sides of the pagoda are usually open and when you ascend the few steps leading up to them you can peer inside (it is not possible to enter the pagoda). Take your time to let your eyes get used to the darkness. Gradually you will discern the Buddha in the characteristic reclining pose, lying on his right side with his arm stretched out, surrounded by disciples in deep and despondent mourning, beating their breast and crying with wide-open mouth. Bodhisattvas, who have already attained enlightenment, watch with a more philosophical attitude. A doctor is just taking the Buddha’s pulse, registering his passing. The figures are extremely life-like, especially the mourners in the Buddha’s death scene with their wide-open mouths are very striking. Does their grief mean they had not yet understood the Buddha’s teachings, or does it point at their ultimate humanity?