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In the past (let us say, the Heian-period) the Japanese preferred the plum blossom, strong as it is in the cold weather and possessing a fine fragrance, to the weaker cherry blossom that rains down at the slightest gust of wind. Later, Saigyo with his madness for pink sadness changed it all…

[Ogose Plum grove, Saitama]

One of your choices of plum garden delight when living in Tokyo is the Ogose Plum Grove in the deepest hinterlands of rural Saitama - but the trip is worth it. This is a rather cold year and seeing some plum blossoms will convince you that al last spring is a possibility…

The plum garden in Ogose is considered one of the best plum groves in the area around Tokyo. It covers a 20,000-sq.-meter area and contains about 1,000 plum trees. Some trees have already reached the venerable age of 300 years and are still bringing forth young shoots…

[Ogose Plum grove, Saitama]

I was there a couple of years ago. My only grumble: the garden was not completely natural, some events where held for children such as a small train riding around under the plums on its improvised track. I prefer nature without such human intrusions. But we had a nice quick lunch of onigiri on the embankment under the trees…

[Ogose Plum grove, Saitama]

Next to the plum garden we found the Tekiho Memorial Museum of Art - despite the grandiose title not an art museum but a small museum dedicated to Japanese dolls. Nihonga painter Nishizawa Tekiho (1888-1965) apparently spent the non-painting part of his life collecting and studying Japanese dolls.

The collection ranges from the Edo-period to the present day, and includes excellent examples of Gosho dolls, Saga dolls, Kamo dolls, dolls for the Bunraku theater and “karakuri” dolls who can perform mechanical tricks, such as a doll that puts on a mask.

[Tekiho Memorial Museum of Art, Ogose, Saitama]

Interesting are miniature hina sets, used at a time in the Edo-period when all ostentation was forbidden, and also hogo dolls, made as a talisman for the protection of young children.

Not enough to justify the long trip from Tokyo on its own, it makes an excellent combination with the blooming plums and in this season usually has dolls for the Hina festival on display as well.

[Ogose Plum grove, Saitama]

Ogose plum grove information:
Ogose Town Tourist Association, tel: 0492-92-3121
Entry free.
The Plum Blossom Festival is held from mid-February to late March each year.

Tekiho Memorial Museum of Art information:
Tel: 049-292-6010
Hours: 9:30-17:00; CL Mon, Tue, NY

Access to both:
Take the Tobu Ogose line (change trains in Sakado on the Tobu line from Ikebukuro) or JR Yako line to Ogose St, then board a bus for Kuroyama and get off at Bairin-mae. A taxi is also a good option. There are few buses and it is unfortunately a rather long walk (40 min) from the station, partly along the road without sidewalk. Walk straight ahead from the station; turn right at the T-junction and basically follow this road until you reach a junction with traffic lights and signs pointing left for Ogose Bairin. Just keep following this road. Walk carefully, as there is no footpath and traffic can sometimes be busy.