What to do in May in Japan
Apr 29th, 2007 by Ad Blankestijn
With the sprouting of the fresh green and the red splash of the azaleas, in May Japan bursts out in a frenzy of festivals.

[Shiobune Temple fire festival - Photo © Ad Blankestijn]
Late April - Early May, Nara: Opening of Hokuendo Hall of Kofukuji (2007: 4/27-5/6).
May 1- 4, Kyoto: Nenbutsu Kyogen at Senbonshakado Temple.
One of the three greatest kyogen performances of Kyoto. On 5/1 and 5/2 at 19:00, 5/3 and 5/4 at 13:00 and 18:00.
May 2, Nara: Emperor Shomu festival, Todaiji Temple.
In commemoration of Emperor Shomu, the imperial patron behind the founding of Todaiji. In the morning (from 11:30.) a Buddhist ceremony is performed in the Tenno-den Hall dedicated to the spirit of Emperor Shomu (E of the Nandaimon); in the afternoon, a costume procession of people representing the Tempyo to Muromachi periods takes place. Noh performances are held on stages set up on Kagami-ike in front of the Great Buddha Hall.

[Todaiji - Photo © Ad Blankestijn]
May 3, Tokyo: Fire festival and unveiling of the Thousand-armed Kannon in Shiobune Kannonji (also azalea festival).
May 3, Kyoto: yabusame shinji at Shimogamo Shrine.
May 3-4, Fukuoka: Hakata Dontaku Festival.
Two days long more than 400 groups from all Kyushu take part in festive parades. The word Dontaku comes from the Dutch “Zondag,” meaning Sunday. This festival, for which the whole city turns out, is indeed characterized by a great holiday atmosphere.
May 5, nationwide: Tango no Sekku (Boys Festival) Warrior figures in armor are set up in the house during this festival - sometimes symbolically only the helmet -, iris leaves are placed under the eaves to fend off evil (and because they are thought to resemble the blade of a sword), and huge carp streamers are fastened to poles. The carp is connected with marital happiness and many offspring.
May 5, Kyoto: Horse-Riding Ceremony (kurabeumae shinji), Kamigamo Shrine
Festival originating in 1039, when this ceremony was first performed to obtain a good harvest.
May 5-6, Fuchu (Tokyo): Kurayami Matsuri, Okunitama Shrine
Mysterious night festival in old shrine in Tokyo’s suburbs.
May 11-12, Nara: Takigi No at Kofukuji.
The oldest torchlight No performances in Japan, already enjoyed by Basho. At the site of the Great South Gate.
May 13, Kyoto: Kanko Festival at Matsuo Shrine
Another, lesser-known hollyhock festival
May 15: Aoi Matsuri, Shimogamo and Kamigamo Shrines
The leaves of the hollyhock (aoi) are offered at both shrines. Originated in ancient custom to propitiate the shrine deities, who brought storm over the land. Re-enacts an Imperial procession to the shrines with nobles in court dress and a chariot drawn by an ox. Leaves in the morning from the Kyoto Imperial Palace, visits the Shimogamo Shrine and finally in the afternoon the Kamigamo Shrine.
Third Sunday of May Kyoto: Mifune Matsuri (Boat festival), Kurumazaki Shrine
Gaily decorated boats float down the Oi River in Arashiyama, recalling the atmosphere of the Heian period
May 12-15 (odd-numbered years) Tokyo: Kanda Matsuri, Kanda Shrine
Two huge palanquins are paraded through Kanda and Nihonbashi in one of Tokyo’s greatest festivals.
May 15, Tokyo Unveiling of the Amida statue in Zojoji

[Fudarakusanji Temple, Nachi - Photo © Ad Blankestijn]
May 17, Nachi (Wakayama Pref.) Unveiling of the Thousand-armed Kannon statue in Fudarakusanji
5 min on foot from Nachi St on the Kisei main line (0735-52-2523)
May 17-18, Nikko: Spring Festival, Toshogu Shrine
Sennin Gyoretsu, procession of 1,000 persons in historical costume. Sacred music and dances on the morning of the 18th. Also Yabusame, archery on horseback, on May 18.
May 17, Nikko: Ennen-no-Mai (Longevity Dance), Rinnoji Temple
Two priests dance in beautiful silk robes. 8:00 in the morning.
May 17-19, Tokyo: Sanja Matsuri, Asakusa Shrine
Parade of great number of mikoshi on 18th and 19th. Performances of dengaku and binzasara.
May 18, Nishinomiya (Hyogo Pref.) Unveiling of the Nyoirin Kannon statue in Kannoji
Bus or taxi from Koyoen st on the Hankyu Koyo line (0798-72-1172)
May 19, Nara: Uchiwamaki (Fan Scattering Ceremony) at Toshodaiji
Buddhist memorial ceremony. Heart-shaped paper fans are scattered together with mochi or rice cakes, bringing good luck for the year to come.
May 21, Kyoto: Shinran-Shonin Gotan-e (Birthday of Priest Shinran), Nishi-Honganji
Service to celebrate the birthday of Shinran (1173-1262), the founder of Jodo Shinshu Buddhism
I recommend the Samurai Festival in Nikko in May. I especially liked the horseback riding archery demonstration.
http://toshogu.blogspot.com/2007/01/previous-trip-to-nikko-tochigi-japan.html